“There are women in my closet, hanging on the hangers. a different woman for each suit, each dress, each pair of shoes. I hoard clothes. My makeup spills from the bathroom drawers, and there are different women for different lipsticks.”― Marya Hornbacher
Inspired by the Monthly Stitch' challenge of creating a franken-indie garment my mind went straight to matching up the Emery dress by Christine Hayes with Colette's Hawthorn dress. I love the skirt part of the Hawthorn, it's sort of a half-circle skirt and I love the way it sways while I walk, and everybody has being raving on about the Emery bodice, and I just had to try one more time to make it fit me properly, as I wasn't so psyched about the fit on the last two versions I made, here and here.
So here you can see me in all my glory, and I am pretty psyched about the dress, I really managed to get the fit right this time, I'll tell you a secret, it all hinges on the bra and the skirt part is just so fantastic, I can't get enough of circle skirts.
Btw, don't you just love how my skin is peaking out around my ankles in the first pic, yay for long legs and normal sized leggings, none are ever long enough, ah well.
So what's a mash up between the Hawthorn and Emery called then? A Hawmery or an Emythorn?
Well, anyways, as the Hawthorn is actually a shirt blouse dress, intended to be buttoned from top to bottom, I had to make some alterations to the skirt part to fit the bodice.
So, first I cut the front and back part of the skirt on the fold, so I would only have two side seams. For the back part this was no problem, for the front part I layed out the pattern piece on top of the fabric, overlapping the fabric by about 2,5cm-3cm at the fold, thus taking off inches of fabric where the original skirt would have been turned under for the placket, but leaving enough seam allowance.
Secondly, I changed the sleeve length, as the short version was far to short for my, ehm lovely arms, that will wave a while longer, after I have already finished waving some time ago, and the long version was just too long for any warm weather days, during which I intend to wear the hell out of this dress.
So I decided on midlength for the sleeves by just shortening the long-sleeved pattern piece.
I suppose I could probably have done with taking the dress in a little, but I love being able to breath in this dress and wriggle in and out of it with out having to open the zip, but that's just me, I like air.
I used a pretty lightweight cotton print in pale green with flowers and butterflies which crinkles pretty easily, but it's great for warm weather, although I have lined it completely with lining taffeta, which is of course quite light and airy, and at the moment it is still slightly to cool to be wearing it without a cardy, but I suppose I will find out soon enough, whether it will stand up to it's intended purpose of a summer dress.
The Emery dress asks for an invisible zipper, but I couldn't be bothered with that, so I sewed the lining to the outer fabric at the center back, then basted the center back together, ironed the seam apart, pinned and then sewed on a normal zipper in place and undid the basting seam. But as I don't plan to use the zipper, like ever, that was actually really unnecessary and just makeshift. And as you will have noticed and as I mentioned above, I cut the back skirt on the fold, so the zip only goes as far as the waist seam, and is not the intended length of 60cm. I never understand, why these kind of dresses always require a long zip, it's usually enough, if it just goes to the waist, if the skirt were tight, now that would be another matter altogether, but it isn't, so...
But I do so love this skirt, it's twirl time, with this kind of skirt, where ever you are, it's twirly time.
And you also have quite a few Marylin Monroe moments in this dress, or if you prefer to be more modern, as my mother mentioned to me, a Kate Middleton moment. You know what I mean, don't you??? You know, when it's windy, just a slight gust of wind can make you flash you undies to the entire world, ahh so embarassing, even when you are wearing leggings.
So, so far nobody has noticed that the front skirt part is upside down, have they, therefore now would be the right time to make it plainly obvious to everyone, right?, Yeah, wasn't really think while cutting out, but it's not that obvious, is it? Right? RIGHT??
Okay, so with this litle mishap being reveald I will leave you with another mishap, the lining. Didn't think I would show what's going on underneath, did you.
I was going to line the whole dress in white, but I only had a little piece of white lining left...yeah okay, that's a lie, I had a whole bunch of white lying around, but it wasn't prewashed and wanted to make this dress, so I couldn't wait. So I used what other lining I had on hand on prewashed, some teal lining taffeta, hence I used white for the bodice and teal for the skirt part. Of course you don't have to line the skirt part, but I like to wear my dresses with tights and leggings and I have noticed that if I don't line all my skirts, they tend to run up my legs and bunch up weirdly, hence the lining.
At the bottom you can see I hemmed the skirt with some olive coloured bias tape. I used this technique, as I didn't lose any length using this method and this is actually the best way to hem circle skirts I my opinion, it's so easy and there are no puckers, great. Okay, I could have used a more suitable colour to match the dress, but it's kinda green and all the different hues go together well, don't cha think?